Italy Bound 17th September

The thinking was that I rarely make it to Europe and had already endured the 24 plus hours of air travel to get there; plus being only a couple of hours away from Milan via a direct flight with Air Malta plus another 3-4 hours driving to Bormio I just had to indulge…

The idea to fly across to Italy from my holiday in Malta for a few days was only a last minute one. So unlike last year when I trained in the hills for months prior, this year would be ridden with only just one ascent of Mt Donna Buang in the legs!

Bormio was selected as the destination for the whirlwind tour as it is surrounded by a few climbs that are regulars in the Giro di Italia – the Passo dello Stelvio (highest paved pass in Italy at 2758m), Passo dello Gavia (2621m) and the much feared Mortirolo!

I had three days in Malta to get over the jetlag prior to taking my early morning flight to Milan Malpensa airport. Soon after landing and with only a couple of wrong turns in the terminal, I found the Europcar hire desk and was out on the road in a Peugeot 3008. I did take one wrong turn on the drive, so was directed by the GPS through some small lanes in Como sud. But finally got back on track and arrived in Bormio just under 4 hours after leaving the airport.

As the holiday was all family this time, I decided to leave my bike behind and hire a road bike for these two days. There was a little confusion with the mechanic in the shop when I first arrived to pick up the bike that I had reserved since it wasn’t back yet. But thankfully when I returned later that evening at the mechanics request, the bike was there so I would be riding in the morning!

To Malta 15th September

The alarm sounded at 5:15am. I had already packed the bike case in the car the previous night and only had to dress and take my packs down.

Annoyingly the car GPS wouldn’t acknowledge Lyon St Exupery airport as a destination, so I just went with Lyon and hoped the turnoff to the airport would be clearly signed.

At such an early hour there were thankfully no cars on the first stretch down the mountain, as the road was mostly a single lane and with many blind corners! A short distance later I was thankfully on the Autobahn. After having driven on very twisty back roads the last couple of weeks, the speed limit of 130 km/hr on the freeway was positively flying!

I made the toll gates and got in the correct lane so was able to pay a cashier. The airport turnoff was impossible to miss and I arrived at the entrance after just under 1 ½ hours driving. Unfortunately I still hadn’t seen a petrol station and needed to return the Peugeot with a full tank! I took a turn off to the nearest suburb of Lyon in the hope of finding one but found nothing. But just after I made the turn away from the airport, I thought I saw over the top of the corn fields what could be the roof of a petrol station. It took a while to find somewhere to turn around and find a gap in the now heavy traffic to head back.

To access the petrol station I had to drive through the whole airport but at least it was there and open. Fifty euros later and one more lap of the airport I was able to drop off the car which had served me well. I had travelled just over 1000km on mostly very narrow roads without any incidents.

 The airline had changed the itinerary. It wasn’t a direct flight as originally listed, instead it stopped in Marseille. Those of us travelling through had to stay on the plane for over an hour before continuing on to Malta. And due to a ground crew strike in Marseille meant it took a little longer to get the plane serviced, refuelled and finally away.

It had been far too long since I was last in Malta and so it was good to finally land. This leg of the trip is primarily to catch up with my wife’s relatives and family friends; many of whom were at the airport to greet me. But I do plan on building the bike and getting in some rides for training, but also as a great way to see the islands.

                                                                                                               

On the road to Buis Les Baronnies 10th September

From now till I leave, all my stays are only for a few days each so I’m on the road again. This time I’m travelling across to Buis Les Baronnies, a small village just around the corner from Mont Ventoux.

To see parts of France I hadn’t previously been, I again stick to the smaller roads. But I am still so close to where I’d been previously! Just before the turn off to Dignes les Bains I had to stop. From here above an arm of Lac de Serre Poncon, I could make out the cliff line of Ceuse. This was a cliff where I spent five weeks rock climbing during my previous road trip to France back in 97, so it was an emotional moment remembering back.

View to Ceuse

Soon enough I am back focussing on the narrow roads but first lunch. In one of the small town before Dignes Les Bains I stop at a pâtissière for fresh bread and a fruit tart. I enjoyed this French style by just stopping by the road at noon.

Lunch

From the town of Forcalquier, I took the narrow roads around the north side of Mont Ventoux to the hotel. Here I have made a great find! The hotel is in the centre of a very old town and the hotel has a pool and large garden at the back to relax. Pity I’m only here for two nights as I really feel comfortable here.

Dinner is a vegetarian Pizza a few doors down. Not as good as the pizza in Briancon, but good enough.

On the road to Barcelonnette 7th September

I am on the move again and am heading less than 100 km further south to the town of Barcelonnette. I have two big days planned, with both days heading over 3 cols before travelling further.

The road out of town is the same I took when riding out to Col Agnel, so it was interesting to see it again from behind the wheel of the Peugeot. Once just past Guillestre, I took a new road to the town of Vars and then over the Col de Vars. The southern ascent of this col looked really good even with the last 4 kilometres at 10%. If I pass through this area another time I will definitely include it in the itinerary.

Looking north from the climb to Vars

Small Church just below Col de Vars south side

It was still early when I made the bottom of the pass; therefore I decided to turn left to the Col de Larche instead of right and scope out the last 30km of tomorrows ride. Once I arrived at the col, I performed the U turn my car GPS has been telling me incessantly to take since I ignored it 15 kilometres ago. From the col I enjoyed the flowing curves downhill into town which I’ll enjoy tomorrow.

  I found the caravan park I’ll be staying at easily enough; unfortunately the office was closed till 4 pm! So I drove into the local supermarket to get supplies for the next three days. Then to find somewhere to spend the next 3 ½ hours where I could relax, eat lunch, and spend time with the netbook writing updates. The destination chosen was to Pra Loup, a ski resort which is 7 km out of town.

Barcelonnette from Pra Loup

When the time finally arrived, I drove the short distance back down and checked in. I was then guided to my home for the three nights, an old caravan with annex.  It will do for the three nights as it has all I need other than the musty smell. Though what is a worry, as I write this after a couple of hours here under the annex I am becoming accustomed to it…

Home sweet home

Transit day 4th September

I have mixed emotions moving to the next location. I am going to new place with new rides to do but at the same time I’ve settled in to where I am. The owners and long-time residents at the Loft hostel made it feel like a friendly share house rather than just somewhere to stay.

This transfer will be simpler than the previous one to Bourg St Maurice now that I have a car. But the rain that caught me out at the end of the ride back to Flumet has not abated, so it provided me some stress driving some big cols and very winding roads in very heavy rain at times. The route I chose to get to Briancon was over the Col d’Iseran and then over the Col du Mont Cenis into Italy. From Susa I took little roads to cross over the border at the Col de Montgenevre which stands over my destination.

I took my time packing and finally left Bourg St Maurice around noon. The rain was heavy, but I was driving on roads I’d just ridden a short time before so made good time over the Col d’Iseran. It was a totally different scene on the summit due to the weather; very few cars and only the bravest motorcyclists. The small clear mountain streams were today murky raging torrents and on many slopes were slivers of water cascading.

Col d'Iseran nearly all to myself

I stopped at the top of the Col du Mont Cenis for a lunch of baguette with tomato and camembert in the car before dropping into Italy. To help with navigation I’d bought a used car GPS unit loaded with Western Europe maps. I found it quite useful as a backup in poor visibility that a hairpin was coming up. But on one occasion it tried to turn me off the main road and onto a gravel road and on a couple of occasions told me to perform a U turn at the earliest possible chance when on the only road over the mountain!

View to Italy from Col du Mont Cenis

The difference in architecture was amazing having just crossed over the one mountain into Italy; the Savoie region has its typically Alps buildings and Italy with its tiled roofs and rendered walls. As I approached Briancon the weather started to improve, and when I made my way into town the roads were dry! With forecast looking good for the rest of the week it looks like luck is on my side at this time.

The Auberge Le Mont Prorel where I’ll be staying till the 7^th is quite a nice old building that has recently been renovated. The photos don’t cleverly show the high buildings either side, but on mine the building has only just been completed and hasn’t been sold yet so is empty. The bathroom has an odd odour, but I can keep my window open and just hear the flowing stream just behind the hotel so isn’t an issue.

Bourg to Bourg 27th August

The strong wind that pushed me backwards on the col d’Ornon only got stronger and with it came rain and even snow on the surrounding hills! It also thankfully finally bought some cooler temperatures too.

Snow on the hills first thing in the morning - view from my front door

Although as the crow flies Bourg Saint Maurice isn’t far across the Alps from Bourg d’Oisans, my journey was going to involve multiple stops to get there.

The first leg was by the local bus service to Grenoble. This service was originally my biggest concern as it was the only part of my trip I couldn’t book a seat online from Australia. In the end my worries of not getting a seat were unfounded as both ways the bus only had at most a dozen passengers. From Grenoble, I booked a seat on the Geneva airport bus which stopped in Chambery. From there I could finally catch a train to Bourg St Maurice. With enough time between stages factored in just in case there were delays meant it took me 6 ½ hours.

All that remained was a short walk with bike case in tow up to my accommodation which is a hostel for this week. Currently it is quiet due to being between seasons so have my own room. With Bourg St Maurice surrounded by ski resorts it is a very popular winter destination. And with the lift systems in place and running during summer (only closing last Saturday) is also now popular with downhill mountain bikers.  

In Transit

Now just waiting for my connecting flight in Dubai after a relatively pain free departure from the airport and through customs. My bike case ended up heavier than I expected at 19.3 kg; I didn’t account for the extra couple of kilograms that the spares and tools added up to. Combined with my back pack weighing in at 10.8 kg meant the total was only just over the 30 kg allowance. But as I queued early, the guy at the check in was still in a good mood and even made a reference to me going over following Cadel! Great to see how his result has been noticed by the general public…