Col de l’Iseran fois deux 28th August

My first full day in Bourg St Maurice started with freshness in the air from the change that had passed through the area. The ride I’d planned was to ascend what is claimed to be the highest paved mountain pass in the Alps, the Col de l’Iseran 2770m. The climbing consists of two parts when riding from Bourg St Maurice; from Bourg St Maurice to the turn off to Tignes and from Val d’Isere to the col. A false flat section of approximately 9 km breaks up the 1955m vertical height gained over the 40km of climbing.

The lower section is pleasant enough and follows a long treed valley to the Tignes turnoff and included some semi lit tunnels through which I used a rear flashing light though was probably unnecessary.  

Low on the climb to Tignes

Lac du Chevril below Val d'Isere

The true climb begins at the ski resort Val d’Isere where it continues the last 15 kilometres. Nowhere is the climb particularly steep, the challenge is in continuing upwards in the thinning air.

Above Val d'Isere

All too soon it’s actually over! I was still feeling quite good, so before turning for home I continued down the steeper north side to Bonneval Sur Arc. The climb from this side really starts another 20 km further down the valley at Lanslebourg Mont Cenis, but is mostly flat and only rises 388 metres over that distance. The true ascent starts from where I’ve descended to and is 13.4km at 7.3%.

Col d'Iseran

 I’m glad I continued down this side. As unlike the Val d’Isere side with the ski resort in view much of the way; the south side is protected by being part of the Parc National de la Vanoise and is breathtaking in more ways than one.

The valley below Bonneval Sur Arc and the start of the ascent

Scenery higher up

The climbing is a little steeper with sections over 10% and the Col d’Iseran time’s two took more effort and I got to the col a little worse for wear. Here there is a confectionary stand which sells the lollies for a set price of €3.50 euro per 100 grams. A bad move to give a bonking cyclist a paper bag and a scoop… €6.50 later and a sugar high got me all the way back down to Bourg St Maurice, a shower and a big plate of pasta.

Sugar

Ride details:
Distance 128.49km
6533m elevation

Bourg to Bourg 27th August

The strong wind that pushed me backwards on the col d’Ornon only got stronger and with it came rain and even snow on the surrounding hills! It also thankfully finally bought some cooler temperatures too.

Snow on the hills first thing in the morning - view from my front door

Although as the crow flies Bourg Saint Maurice isn’t far across the Alps from Bourg d’Oisans, my journey was going to involve multiple stops to get there.

The first leg was by the local bus service to Grenoble. This service was originally my biggest concern as it was the only part of my trip I couldn’t book a seat online from Australia. In the end my worries of not getting a seat were unfounded as both ways the bus only had at most a dozen passengers. From Grenoble, I booked a seat on the Geneva airport bus which stopped in Chambery. From there I could finally catch a train to Bourg St Maurice. With enough time between stages factored in just in case there were delays meant it took me 6 ½ hours.

All that remained was a short walk with bike case in tow up to my accommodation which is a hostel for this week. Currently it is quiet due to being between seasons so have my own room. With Bourg St Maurice surrounded by ski resorts it is a very popular winter destination. And with the lift systems in place and running during summer (only closing last Saturday) is also now popular with downhill mountain bikers.  

Alpe d’Huez rematch and Col d’Ornon 26th August

I was in two minds – whether to try and post a time up Alpe d’Huez or ride a different col? Annoyingly when I rode up Alpe d’Huez last Saturday afternoon I stopped at the first timing point. And even when I continued on to the tour timing point I missed it completely! As today was my fourth day on, I wasn’t sure if it was even in me?

I did choose to ride the rematch, but this time putting the odds more in my favour by riding earlier in the morning before in full sun and actually trying to warm up first rather than just ride the kilometre from where I was staying. For this I rode out the 5km towards Briancon before the road kicks up hill and then returned back to the start. Here if not 100% could still pull the pin if I wasn’t firing on all cylinders and go to plan b. This was where I would slink away to an obscure col away from the all too obvious gaze of all the other cyclists, motorcyclists and motorists sharing this same stretch of tarmac.

Surprisingly I was able to moderate my effort through the steeper first couple of km and was actually feeling okay! I just kept focussing on my output, trying not to push too hard or lose momentum. This time I freely went between the 29 and 23-26 on the corners and focus on also keeping my cadence up.  There were a few times amongst the last hairpins when I lost a little focus but was quick to notice and kept pushing.

4th last corner - photo from photobreton.com

Finally I was amongst the buildings of the Alpe d’Huez village and all I had to do was swing around left under the short underpass for the 1 ½ kilometres to the finish. But instead of increasing the tempo along this false flat section to take the left hander, there is a barrier half over the road with a road closed sign! I was about to discover that a street market was being held right where I needed to ride… Due to all the people I was forced to roll through at walking pace! Many pardons were called out as I tried to weave around the pedestrians, with them blissfully unaware the stress they were causing and the valuable seconds they were costing me!

As soon as I’m through I cut off a car trying to also access the tunnel from my right, but by the way I came out of the crowds they would have been aware of my agenda. So too when I hit the flat section just before the final sharp left hander a car sees me coming and actually pulled over! I made the turn missing the strategically placed plant pot and still in the big ring suffered to the line (or should I say pole, there is no line).

Stop the watch and it’s under the hour – 58:40 in fact! I was very happy with the result, even though I spent the next ten minutes trying not to throw up from the exertion.  Once I recomposed myself, I rolled down through the market and back down the hairpins of the Alpe for the last time on this trip.

A quick bite to eat back at my accommodation and there was still time to get in one last col. The pass selected sounded on paper as ideal to finish the week being often recommended for the start of the season due to its mild gradient over its 12km length… Well the Col d’Ornon wasn’t a push over for me. Now in the sun for much it’s lower half, and in the last kilometres to the pass though not steep was into a strong head wind. At only 2.5% in the last kilometre, I was in my 29 barely going 10km/hr!

Col d'Ornon looking south

Saying that the return with this headwind made for a very fast ride, and soon enough I was back in Bourg d’Oisans.

Northern descent col d'Ornon - up towards the top

Northern descent col d'Ornon -lower slopes

Then it was a matter of pulling apart and pack my bike, my gear and clean the apartment in preparation for the next destination - Bourg St Maurice.

Ride details:

Distance 67.76km

2329m elevation

Col Du Sabot and Alpe d’Huez via Villard Reculas 25th August

The Col du Sabot didn’t show on my radar during initial planning for my trip. But it was suggested to me when asking questions online about rides in the French Alps and I am glad I took their advice.

View up to the Col du Sabot

The col du Sabot in conjunction with the Col du Glandon was once the route for traders across the mountains to La Marienne and was a reliable paved road since the middle ages!  Fortunately the road which now stops at the col has been resurfaced since, though it is still rough in places. And combined with the cattle and sheep that roam freely and sunbake on the road a sensible speed on the descent is recommended.

Col du Glandon from Col du Sabot

The 14.5km climb starts just above Allemont and the pretty Lac du Verney and gets to business immediately, sitting around 10 % as it makes its way through the trees to the lovely village of Vaujany. Not much further along the road becomes a single lane and escapes from the trees into the open slopes. As per many routes in the area it involves numerous hairpins and switchbacks as it climbs. And as it is a dead end and not as well-known as the more famous roads in the area you will have it much to yourself as I did.

Looking back down the road from the Col du Sabot

As the col tops out at 2100m, even though exposed to the sun I didn’t find it too hot. When at the pass, the wind was funnelled through the narrow gap I actually started to get chilled! So I descended after a relatively short time at the top to catch my breath and enjoy the views.

 Once I hit Lac du Verney, the second climb planned for the day was another quiet road. The main road to Alpe D’Huez is the most famous with its 21 hairpins straight above Bourg d’Oisans, but is actually one of three roads to the resort. The second way up I had already ascended on the Tuesday via the col de Sarenne. The third route I was taking this day was via switchbacks in the forested left flank that passes through Villard Reculas. This road then continued to join the main Alpe road just below the 6^th last corner.

View back towards Lac du Verney and the Col du Sabot from the road to Villard Reculas

This also was a good choice for the warm weather that we were having, especially whilst lower down in the heavy tree cover. It also is a little longer than the regular route so was a more amenable gradient.

Rochetallee from the road to Villard Reculas

Only disappointment was that there was actually some descending before joining the main road at Huez. This time I was able to soak in some more of the atmosphere of this famous road up through the last hairpins and enjoyed it a little more. The descent was challenging as always but I am starting to feel more comfortable taking the bends.  Another enjoyable day in the saddle!

Ride details:

Distance 81.82km

3189m elevation

La Berarde Wednesday 24th August

La Berarde is a small village nestled at the head of the Vallee du Veneon. It is surrounded by the massive peaks of the Parc National des Ecrins.

Although not a true climb, it did involve over 1000 metres of climbing, with two steeper sections. The first just after Le Bourg-d’Arud (~3km at 11%) and then another set of switchbacks over a similar distance but slightly less steep  to the village of St-Christophe-en-Oisans.

Looking back down the valley from the steep section just below St-Christophe-en-Oisans.

Church at St-Christophe-en-Oisans

Hotel des Ecrins at St-Christophe-en-Oisans

The road then continues on at an easier gradient, in many places cut into the side of and through the cliff.

Road past St-Christophe-en-Oisans looking back.

Road past St-Christophe-en-Oisans looking towards la Berarde.

Around every bend was another photo opportunity, so it took longer than planned to finally get to the end of the road and the tiny village of La Berarde. It was once just a shepherd’s village, now it caters for the many sightseers, walkers and climbers that come to this beautiful valley.

 With an early start, this was another good itinerary for a hot day due to being in a deep and long valley. And with the spectacular scenery, a great distraction from the fact you were climbing for much of the way!

Side valley above St-Christophe-en-Oisans.

The descent back to Bourg d’Oisans is fast and flowing in places, and just crazy fast in others! The road was quite narrow in many places so you still had to vigilant.

All in all another great days riding in spectacular scenery!

Ride details:
Distance 70.1km
elevation 1852m

Col de Sarenne and Les Balcons d'Auris

I wanted to ride the Col de Sarenne 1999m as soon as I saw a picture on the back of the Oisans cycling guide (free booklet with 30 local rides listed). The col only involves climbing 1250 vertical metres over approximately 23km, so I decided it should be manageable.

The first 5km is pretty flat along the main road out towards Briancon. All too soon are long sections of 7% and some long partially lit tunnels. The turn off for the col is just after the dam wall of the Lac du Chambon. Here was the steepest section of the day at 12% but fortunately didn’t last too long. The road continues up the quiet Ferrand valley amongst the trees which provided some shelter from the bitting sun. Once the road hits the end of the valley below imposing waterfalls, it cut back along east facing treeless slopes. The sun was bitting but the cooler alpine breezes moderated some of the intensity. The top of the climb was soon within sight but still involved a few more kilometres of climbing.

Looking back at the last kilometres of the Col de Sarenne

From the col, a very rough road traverses to the back of Alpe D’Huez, and other than a few bone jarring kilometres and views of the top of the Gorge de Sarenne was over soon enough.

View south from the Col

The second half of today’s ride was along les Balcons d’Auris. A road that is all too obvious as it traverses half way up the steep cliffs to the right of Alpe d’Huez. Although it is suggested as not being too strenuous, even the easy rides involve some climbing… Being mid-morning, this also worked as a suitable ride for a hot day, as long as you got there before the sun hits the face fully. A suggested diversion for Les Balcons is to ride 6km’s up to the village of Auris d’Oisans and up it is. It wasn’t too steep with the steepest kilometre listed as 7.7% and the rest closer to 5%.

Looking back towards Bourg d'Oisans from halfway along Les Balcon

Here I decided to order a coke again and also ordered two scoops of ice cream. At least this time I got exactly what I was after! An enjoyable, fast flowing descent soon followed with only a few rises kept the legs working. Till all too soon we were flung back out onto the main road at le Freney D’Oisans. From here it was mostly downhill back into Bourg D’Oisans and a big plate of pasta.

Le Freney D'Oisans

Although today was still hot, the ride was shaded for much of the way so was never unbearable. And this circuit also offered a more suitable introduction for this my first week. Definitely feeling a little better today…

Ride details:

Distance 85.4km

3913m elevation

Rest day

After yesterday’s lesson I decided to take a day Monday off the bike to recover and reassess. I had a great sleep in and spent much of the day lazing about, editing photos and writing updates. Honestly it’s too hot to do much else; it has been in the mid 30’s every day!

Bourg d'Oisans

I’d heard that the tourist centre has free wifi, so I walked the couple of 100 metres into town. Since my first night landing at Paris CDG I haven’t had internet access which is the reason for the lack of updates. Unfortunately it’s temporarily out of order, but I am offered the use of a free PC in the room next door. Problem with this is the computer has a French keyboard and characters like @ don’t even populate in the yahoo mail login! Finally managed to cut and paste text typed in a French search screen and read my emails. But even trying to reply is a lost cause so I signed out and will try again later in the week.

Walked through Bourg D’Oisans and bought my first Pain au Chocolat for the trip which was only one euro! Talking of food, I am also already on my second round of French Camembert (under two euro!) and enjoy cheap bananas. As I have my own kitchen I have been cooking big plates of pasta and vegies to keep the energy up and the costs down.

After yesterday’s epic, I am a bit nervous about getting back in the hills. I have decided to stay closer to town and do one big climb for the day. Hopefully things go better…

Did I mention it's hot?

The circuit I rode Sunday is similar to one used by a popular annual ride which draws big numbers. It is a clockwise loop which heads over the Col de la Croix de Fer (HC), down to the next valley and back over the mountain range via the Col Du Telegraphe (Cat 1), a short descent into Valloire and then over the Col du Galibier (HC). Then it’s a long descent back into Bourg D’Oisans and then finally up Alpe D’Huez. I planned to ride this minus the final ascent of Alpe D’Huez.

It’s still freezing in the shaded valley when I left, but as soon as the sun appeared the gillet and arm warmers were quickly removed. The first climb for the day starts a short way from town and is a mix of gradients up to 11.2%. Due to the undulations it was hard to find a rhythm but I managed it okay.

On the road to Col du Glandon

As the Col du Glandon 1924m (HC)  is a short deviation from the road up to Col de la Croix de Fer 2067m (HC), I ride up to the Glandon for my first col.

Col Du Glandon from the Lac du Grand Maison

  
First Col in France - Col Du Glandon

                                                      

The last few kilometres up to Col de la Croix de Fer are uneventful, with the hardest kilometres done well before the Glandon turn off. So with that I’ve just completed my second HC col for the day. A quick petit espresso at the café at the col and it’s down into the valley via the pretty village of Saint-Sorlin-d'Arves.

The ride up the valley to the Col du Telegraphe is along a main road running parallel to the autobahn. This stretch is not the nicest, but as on all French roads the drivers are very respectful of cyclists and it isn’t too long before I’m off the main road and back in the hills.

Col du Telegraphe

Starting from the town of Saint Michel de Maurienne, the Col du Telegraphe 1566m is only 12km long but hovers around 7-8% for much of the way. It is treed so offered some respite from the sun at least. From the col it is a short descent into ski resort village of Valloire. Here I stopped at a l'eau potable water fountain and decided I needed a coke from the bar / restaurant next door. Somewhere along the way my order for just a coke was lost in translation and a toasted cheese and ham sandwich with salad came out with the drink! Later I discovered that when she replied with what sounded like 'Coke monsieur?' that the waitress wasn't confirming my order but was actually confirming I was ordering a croque monsieur; the sandwich! To be honest I should have ordered food anyway so eat it, but am not feeling that well from the heat and exertion so struggled to eat it.

The road immediately kicks up out of town and the trees are gone. After 6 kilometres I am still not feeling that great so stopped under one of the few trees to try and recover. I still needed to ride 11km to the Col du Galibier before I could descend the last 40km back to Bourg D’Oisans, so with no other option available I finally talked myself back up and onto the bike.

 I only made it another 3km’s to the restaurant at Plan Lachat, where another water fountain and the shade of a small conifer were far too nice to pass up. Here also marks the start of the final 8km of hairpins and steep roads that menaced above.

Just over 2km to go

To get over these last kilometres I decided to ride it in sections and was able to make it another 4km without stopping. Shortly after though the decision when to stop was taken away from me as both legs cramped! Another couple of enforced stops and much of it ridden standing (I could only ride at most 10 seconds at a time seated before the legs wanted to cramp again) I made the tunnel and final  kilometre and 9% gradient marker. I pushed on only to cramp again within sight of the top!

Looking north from just below the Col du Galibier - seen in the top left corner

It was an overwhelming sense of relief rather than elation making the col, I was just glad that it was over! The small dusty car park at the col du Galibier 2645m was swarming with tourists who had driven up by car or ridden one of the many motorbikes.

Exhausted

The descent is super-fast, though once on the main road there are numerous long tunnels that need to be ridden through. They are partially lit so not as bad as it could have been…

View of the mountains in the Parc National des Ecrins

So after the second day, I am exhausted! Plus a little sun burnt and quite demoralised. To be honest I am not sure what the main cause is? Whether it is the heat (bike computer registered 40 degrees on the Galibier), the jet lag, the altitude, the severity of the climbs or a combination of all the above? I had planned later in the week to ride the Glandon again to access the Madeleine to return back over the Glandon, this time from the north. That would mean I’d be riding three HC climbs in the one day! Now having ridden over some of these big climbs, I don’t think it is feasible for me in this first week. If I was in Bourg D’Oisans in a couple of weeks’ time most likely, as I should be fit enough by then for such a challenge.

 I now know nothing I trained on back home compares to these mountains! On the climbs here in France, passing traffic is often accompanied by the smell of cooked clutches and burning brakes! It has been a very painful introduction; these climbs demand respect.

Ride details:

Distance 171.65km

6637m elevation

Alpe D'Huez

Breakfast at the ETAP hotel is a reasonable affair; a self-serve buffet of cereals and breads to toast and okay coffee for only 4.90 Euro. After a few laps for food and coffee refills, it’s off to the airport bus outside the front door.

Train to Grenoble was by TGV to Lyon then regular train to Grenoble. The TGV is amazing, what long distance train travel should be. Super smooth and fast transport across the country! Few issues initially getting the bike stored and an old French woman in my seat of whom I understood nothing. But there was a spare seat so I was able settle in for the journey south… One more train and then the bus from Grenoble to Bourg d’Oisans which all went without a hitch.

Lower slopes looking towards Bourg D'Oisans

After walking to my accommodation and building up the bike. I walked the few hundred metres back into the centre of town to get some spares from the local bike shop and then back home via the local Supermarche for groceries. With that out of the way it was time to ride my first climb in France!

Although it was still hot, I had planned to ride up Alpe d’Huez on the first afternoon in Bourg D’Oisans. These imposing mountains are the reason I travelled half way around the world and I wanted to start immediately. But till I got onto the climb I didn’t realize just how hot it was!

The climb to Alpe D’Huez starts just out of town and kicks up immediately! The first three km are at a solid % and where it eases is still at a solid grade. I was adamant through this section not to use my lowest gear on the back, as this was meant to be my emergency only gear! Any confidence I had from all the training I had done back in Australia was gone by the 4km mark and I changed down to the 29 and stayed in this gear to the end.

Corner 7 looking up to Alpe D'Huez

With minimal shelter from the driving sun the heat was unbearable; the maximum registered on my bike computer was 39 degrees! I started to get a pounding headache and really struggled at times but just kept on going.  Although a sign when finally approaching the village suggested 2km to go, shortly after amongst the shops is sign and banner proclaiming the climb as finished. I asked a couple of cyclists if I could get my photo taken and whilst talking to them discovered that this is the timed finish and not the tour finish. So I continued on and am perturbed when I run out of road paintings. I asked a cycle mechanic outside a shop and discover I’ve passed the pole marking the tour finish. I rolled back down and got my photo taken by a family walking past, but given the quiet location is very much an anti-climax… 

The descent is challenging and my hands hurt from all the braking! The result is only 31km ridden for the day; which doesn’t look like much but it includes my first Hors Category climb! I have the Col de le Croix de Fer, Col du Telegraphe, and Col du Galibier loop planned for tomorrow. As it is forecast to be another hot one, I’m heading out as soon as it’s light.

Ride details:

Distance 30.95km

1267m elevation