The highest paved road in Europe 8th September

For each week, there has always been one day more challenging than the rest. Usually due to the distance to cover, the number of mountains to climb or the elevation gain. This ride ticked all three boxes and was definitely going to test me.

The first col was to be the Col de la Bonette 2715m followed by the short loop up to the Cime de la Bonette 2802m. This climb on its own is a challenge with 1587m elevation gain over 24km. But I wasn’t going to just ride out and back; I was continuing on a 184km loop over two more passes!

The second pass was to be the Col de la Lombarde 2350m above the Ski resort Isola 2000. This pass also marks the border with Italy which was where I was to descend. From the valley below, I would follow the main road up the 30km uphill grind back into France over the Colle della Maddalena 1996m (known as the Col de Larche when approached from France). From here it would thankfully mostly downhill over the last 31km back to Barcelonnette.

The morning was perfect with clear skies and a chill in the air. I wanted to get out reasonably early as I knew this was a big day. Even with arm warmers, it was a cold first 10km up the main valley to the town of Jausiers; the location of the turnoff and start of the climb to Col de la Bonette.  

Looking back down mid climb on the Bonette

Thanks must go to the French and their zeal for road resurfacing and bless them for their love of hot mix. The whole ascent was to be on a lovely fresh silky smooth layer of bitumen. It initially wove its way up taking the left side of the valley through steep pastures and open forest. Then halfway the way was blocked by a cliff band which the road negotiated by a series of hairpins and a precarious traverse. Once through we were soon above the tree line and it opened into a huge basin with the road snaking through the path of least resistance.

Upper basin

The distinctive pyramid shape of the Cime de la Bonette didn’t come into view till around 4km to go and these last kilometres eased in angle offering a chance to recover before the final steep climb above the col to the high point on the Cime. Given its claimed status as the highest paved road in Europe, it was swarming with tourists. So I only stayed long enough for photos before donning my waterproof jacket to block out the wind on the 26km descent to Saint Etienne de Tinee.

The distinctive but not particularly attractive Cime de la Bonette 

I did stop a short way into the descent where the road passes through an abandoned army barracks. As whilst researching my trip, I’d read about murals soldiers painted whilst at Camp des Fourches (built between 1896 and 1910 and manned till after WW2) and wanted to look for them. Only one of the many buildings still had intact paintings and clearly showed the entertainment the soldiers longed for while in this isolated outpost.

The descent continued through Saint Etienne de Tinee to the town of Isola. The climb to the Col de la Lombarde started with a couple of tough kilometres which tested the legs after enjoying a very long descent.  It continued up a tight valley, swapping numerous times back over the inviting stream. Nearer the ski resort Isola 2000 the angle eased and the cooler air made the heat more bearable. I tried to find water or somewhere to buy some food but only found builders constructing busily before the ski season begins.

Leaving Isola

There was only 5 kilometres left to climb to the col from the resort and soon enough I was amongst the usual tourists. The descent into Italy was on a very narrow and rough road. It demanded an intense concentration, not only for the hard braking and corners but also for oncoming vehicles. Much of the way down it was barely wide enough for the oncoming car and I squeezed as hard as possible to opposite verges.  Then there were the motorhomes… I’m continuously amazed at the roads these get driven up!

Last section to the Col de la Lombarde

Descent off the Col de la Lombarde in Italy

Once down on the main road the last climb began. Though nowhere near as steep as the previous two climbs or as high it was still going to be a long slog. A short way along there was a road side café with an ice cream board displayed. I went with what I knew; a Coke and a Magnum Classico. If not for the biting flies I’d probably still be sitting there.

Unfortunately the wind picked up and it wasn’t in my favour. The road was mostly a straight run into this cursed wind till above the town of Argentera, where after around signed tornante 20 I lost interest in reading the signs. Instead, the Marmotte’s living between the bends were a good distraction; odd creatures that look like a very overweight gopher. I’d read they are big and dumb enough to take out cyclists by running in the way on descents; given I had only seen the odd Marmotte during ascents and that I probably could have walked faster at this point they were just the distraction.

Tornante

Above these hairpins the road straightened and eased in the last few kilometres to the col. Here were just a few trucks and a small store selling liquor. Probably a throwback to where this was a manned border crossing and it was most likely bustling with people queuing at the border to bring back cheap alcohol.

Descent of the Colle della Maddalena

There was now just one last obstacle between me and home; a short section of road that is marked as closed to cyclists. The only options if I was stopped here were to either hitch past with the bike or take a dirt track that took a ridge opposite. From what I could gather, the reason why the road is closed is that it runs under an unstable hillside and they don’t want a cyclist slowing traffic. But as my direction was downhill and I kept a car within sight without trying there was no risk and was pointless. I was still relieved when I made the other side and was able to ride back to town.

Ride details:

Distance 183.69km

5784m elevation

On the road to Barcelonnette 7th September

I am on the move again and am heading less than 100 km further south to the town of Barcelonnette. I have two big days planned, with both days heading over 3 cols before travelling further.

The road out of town is the same I took when riding out to Col Agnel, so it was interesting to see it again from behind the wheel of the Peugeot. Once just past Guillestre, I took a new road to the town of Vars and then over the Col de Vars. The southern ascent of this col looked really good even with the last 4 kilometres at 10%. If I pass through this area another time I will definitely include it in the itinerary.

Looking north from the climb to Vars

Small Church just below Col de Vars south side

It was still early when I made the bottom of the pass; therefore I decided to turn left to the Col de Larche instead of right and scope out the last 30km of tomorrows ride. Once I arrived at the col, I performed the U turn my car GPS has been telling me incessantly to take since I ignored it 15 kilometres ago. From the col I enjoyed the flowing curves downhill into town which I’ll enjoy tomorrow.

  I found the caravan park I’ll be staying at easily enough; unfortunately the office was closed till 4 pm! So I drove into the local supermarket to get supplies for the next three days. Then to find somewhere to spend the next 3 ½ hours where I could relax, eat lunch, and spend time with the netbook writing updates. The destination chosen was to Pra Loup, a ski resort which is 7 km out of town.

Barcelonnette from Pra Loup

When the time finally arrived, I drove the short distance back down and checked in. I was then guided to my home for the three nights, an old caravan with annex.  It will do for the three nights as it has all I need other than the musty smell. Though what is a worry, as I write this after a couple of hours here under the annex I am becoming accustomed to it…

Home sweet home

Col d’Izoard from Briancon and Col de Montgenevre 6th September

I had originally planned to ride over the Col de Montgenevre and continue onto the Italian ski resort Sestriere and return the same way. But as I had already enjoyed the novelty of riding to another country last week and as Sestriere is just another ski resort town a rethink was in order.

The obvious climb still to do in the area was up the Col d’Izoard from Briancon. Whilst descending yesterday, I thought to myself it would be a good climb so this became my first objective. I already knew the way, so it was only a matter of pointing my bike in the right direction after a late breakfast and start pedalling!

The road on the north ascent rises in stages. The first third ascends through dry open forest with a flat section and even some downhill.

The middle third is through open pastures and small villages.

The top third is the business and winds its way steeply through pine forest, till it peaks above the tree line in the final kilometres to offer a clear view of the col.

Looking back from the top third

Last hairpins and Refuge Napoleon

The morning was warm but with a cool breeze blowing, fortunately nothing like the strong cold wind less than 24 hours before. I found a good rhythm and really enjoyed the climb, passing quite a few riders finding the climb a little more challenging than I was. Even through the top third it just felt right, as climbing on a bike with some decent fitness should. I checked my Garmin files for the trip so far, and from the 14 days riding I have ridden already 1431km and just shy of 50,000 metres vertical!

Once I reached the top, I turned around to descend almost immediately. I’d been standing on this col just the day before so had already soaked in the scenery and taken the photos I wanted. The descent wasn’t any less fun the second time round, especially as I knew the corners.

Back in Briancon, the day was still young and the legs still fresh enough for one more col. So I took a right turn and started on the road to the Col de Montgenevre. The first kilometre uphill to the old city of Briancon is a steep rise sitting at 10% before moderating considerably. Once beyond the city limits the road wanders up at only a couple of percent with views of the climbing to come. The road is the main pass over into Italy so can carry quite a bit of traffic, but it is wide and isn’t particularly long nor overly steep.

Col de Montgenevre heads up and right from the middle of the picture

The town of Montgenevre is a ski venue in summer and is a cluster of shops and accommodation which would be bustling in winter. Now in summer with the French summer holidays finished it is very quiet. Since the border is close I rolled the short distance down to the Italian town of Claviere which was just as empty.

On the way back to the hotel, I rolled into the UNESCO listed old city with its fortifications and narrow cobbled streets set up high over Briancon. Well worth exploring whilst in town, as long as you look past the souvenir shops.

The rest of the afternoon was spent back at the hotel doing all the mundane tasks whist being on the road such as hand washing. I did have the pleasure of being distracted by the TV for an hour, when Eurosport showed the day’s highlights of the La Vuelta de Espagna.

It’s late and I still hadn’t eaten dinner, so I wandered up to the main street checking out the menus by the door of each restaurant. I ended up settling for a vegetarian pizza at Les Tables, well hidden from the street and was a converted cellar behind the empty outdoor settings. Given I was only one of two customers , the pizza came quickly and was quite delicious. A very thin base with seasonal vegetables such as eggplant and zucchini, plus a little salad and just the right amount of cheese.

Ride details:

Distance 75.78km

2329m elevation

Col Agnel and the Col d'Izoard 5th September

If you watched stage 18 of the TDF this year, you will recognise these climbs. Only unlike the tour riders who ascended the Col Agnel from the Italian side before descending the hairpins and fast flowing roads to then ride over the Col d’Izoard, I rode from Briancon and climbed the Col Agnel from the French side before following the Tour route back into town.

The first 32km was mostly downhill on the main road that continues on to Gap, so carried a reasonable amount of traffic. With the strong headwind and a few climbs it wasn’t the easy warm up I was expecting.

The turnoff to Guillestre and the start of the days climbing was just after the imposing Mont Dauphin Fort. Once I made the turn to Guillestre, it wasn’t long before the road started heading up. What was meant to be a pleasant introduction with lower average gradients in these first kilometres of the climb became more challenging, when a detour due to road works sent us high up a steep and narrow lane up over the ridge to the right of the main road.

Looking up the gorge from the detour

Once back on the right road, it continued up in a narrow gorge (the Combe du Queyras) with a fast flowing river just off to the side and limestone outcrops above.

Combe du Queyras

With low gradient, great surface, amazing views and now a tail wind the turn off to the Col d”Izoard came soon enough.

Just after the turn off to the Col d'Izoard - Chateau Queyras

For now though, I was to continue straight on and up to the Col Agnel. At 2744m, it is amongst the highest paved roads in the Alps and is only 26m lower than the Col d’Iseran which is still claimed to be the highest. Like the Iseran, I didn’t find the climbing too bad even in the last steeper kilometres. I just paced myself and was distracted by the beautiful open valley the road followed in the higher reaches to the col.

Road to the Col Agnel - now within sight at the end of the valley

With the wind, it was too cold to hang around too long. Plus I still had to get over another tough climb before I made it back to Briancon. After the initial de rigueur hairpins, the road opened up and even into the headwind was fast.

In Italy

Looking back down the valley from the Col Agnel

Once I made the turn off to the Col d’Izoard, only 14.5 km of climbing was between me and the hotel. I was still feeling okay till the village of Brunissard. Here the accumulated fatigue, cold wind, and steeper grades started to take their toll. It was quite a struggle through the hairpins and pine forest to the Casse Deserte, where the road descended briefly through the barren screen and dramatic outcrops. Then all that remained was the last 2 km before arriving at the windswept col. Here I was quick to get the photos taken and jacket out of the jersey pocket and onto the descent into Briancon as it registered only 11 degrees at the top!

Looking back down the southern valley approach to the Col d'Izoard with Brunissard in the foreground

Casse Deserte with the Col d'Izoard behind

The top section was extremely technical and a few cars were overtaken till the road opened out and eased in gradient. I was very happy to make it back to town as the threatening rain held off and after some time and effort got some feeling back in my hands.

Looking south from the Col d'Izoard

I spent my second night dinning out at the Casino restaurant just a couple of doors down. I’ve now had two different okay pasta dishes and as they expect you to gamble afterwards are reasonably priced.

Ride details:

Distance 137.16km

3952m elevation

Transit day 4th September

I have mixed emotions moving to the next location. I am going to new place with new rides to do but at the same time I’ve settled in to where I am. The owners and long-time residents at the Loft hostel made it feel like a friendly share house rather than just somewhere to stay.

This transfer will be simpler than the previous one to Bourg St Maurice now that I have a car. But the rain that caught me out at the end of the ride back to Flumet has not abated, so it provided me some stress driving some big cols and very winding roads in very heavy rain at times. The route I chose to get to Briancon was over the Col d’Iseran and then over the Col du Mont Cenis into Italy. From Susa I took little roads to cross over the border at the Col de Montgenevre which stands over my destination.

I took my time packing and finally left Bourg St Maurice around noon. The rain was heavy, but I was driving on roads I’d just ridden a short time before so made good time over the Col d’Iseran. It was a totally different scene on the summit due to the weather; very few cars and only the bravest motorcyclists. The small clear mountain streams were today murky raging torrents and on many slopes were slivers of water cascading.

Col d'Iseran nearly all to myself

I stopped at the top of the Col du Mont Cenis for a lunch of baguette with tomato and camembert in the car before dropping into Italy. To help with navigation I’d bought a used car GPS unit loaded with Western Europe maps. I found it quite useful as a backup in poor visibility that a hairpin was coming up. But on one occasion it tried to turn me off the main road and onto a gravel road and on a couple of occasions told me to perform a U turn at the earliest possible chance when on the only road over the mountain!

View to Italy from Col du Mont Cenis

The difference in architecture was amazing having just crossed over the one mountain into Italy; the Savoie region has its typically Alps buildings and Italy with its tiled roofs and rendered walls. As I approached Briancon the weather started to improve, and when I made my way into town the roads were dry! With forecast looking good for the rest of the week it looks like luck is on my side at this time.

The Auberge Le Mont Prorel where I’ll be staying till the 7^th is quite a nice old building that has recently been renovated. The photos don’t cleverly show the high buildings either side, but on mine the building has only just been completed and hasn’t been sold yet so is empty. The bathroom has an odd odour, but I can keep my window open and just hear the flowing stream just behind the hotel so isn’t an issue.

Circuit over the Col de la Colombiere 3rd September

Now with a vehicle, the circuit from the town of Flumet over the Col de la Colombiere and the Col des Aravis made the list. It meant driving back over the Cormet de Roselend and Col des Saises that I’d ridden a couple of days before, which due to the narrow and windy roads ended up taking nearly an hour and a half to drive the 72 km one way journey!

Though none of the cols came close to 2000 metres, they did pack a mean punch.

From Flumet, the main road followed the valley towards Chamonix with Mont Blanc standing high overhead till the road split and I took the left fork to Cluses. This section of the loop was nothing but a way of getting to the business and was mostly flat and straight for much of it.

Though flat, still stunning views - waterfall by the road to Cluses 

It was from Cluses where the action started and did it start with a bang! Rather than head up the main road through to the village of Le Reposoir which marks the start of the hardest section to the Col de la Colombiere 1618m, I was recommended to take a hard left at the start and head over the Col de Romme 1300m first. This 9.3km climb was included in the 2009 TDF and hits hard from the beginning with a wall over 10%. It does ease up after a kilometre, but just as you start to recover hits repeatedly with more sections over 10% including 500m at 12.5%! Fortunately the road is shaded, and having got the 29 cog working again I was able to keep a reasonable cadence and got to the col and village of Romme.

Looking back down the road to Romme on the lower slopes

Here the road descended to Le Reposoir and would have been a brilliant descent if it wasn’t for the gravel on most corners forcing me to take the corners close to walking pace. The village was quite pretty nestled in the valley below the bare surrounding peaks, but also signified the start of the final 7 brutal kilometres to the main col of the day.

Le Reposoir and the col above

The next kilometres continued to get progressively steeper with the final kilometre averaging 10.2%  and the col in view for these last kilometres taunting you.

So close yet still so far

The descent from the col continued down through the town Le Grand-Bornand with a few hairpins but mainly long straight sections where a tight tuck kept the speed high. Soon enough the road started to rise again and soon we slipped over the Col de St Jean de Sixt 956m not realising it was a signed col!

Looking back with Le Reposoir below and the Col de Romme behind and above

The last climb for the day was the col des Aravis 1487m. None of the kilometres to the col were terribly steep, the accumulated fatigue from the previous days meant it wasn’t easy either. It was here that the clouds finally started to make good their threat. Initially it was only a few drops, but soon it became heavier and it was a very wet cyclist who made Flumet and the waiting car.

Chapelle Saint Anne - Col des Aravis

Considering at some points the visibility was down to just metres, the drive back over to Bourg St Maurice was uneventful. I was very relieved though to have gotten over those narrow roads, the French optimistically paint middle marks on the roads even when only one car wide!

This ride marked the last ride in Bourg St Maurice. The tally for this week’s riding is 715 km and 24483m elevation gain.

Ride details:
Distance 100.07km
2653m elevation

La Plagne return 2nd September

After yesterday’s big day, today was to be an easier day with just one of the closer climbs to Bourg St Maurice on the menu. The climb chosen was to the ski resort La Plagne.

 It has been included in the Tour de France on a few occasions, but unlike another ski resort Alpe d’Huez which thousands flock to, this climb only draws a few. Yet the climb to La Plagne has one extra numbered hairpin, climbs higher and climbs for longer!

One of the many corners

It was a pleasant roll along the valley for just over 10 km to the climbs base after a slow breakfast, before turning left and onto the climb. As the road ascended, it passed through a mix of fields, trees and then towards the top even past the La Plagne bobsleigh run. Soon enough the corner signs ticked down into single digits and not long after that the resort came into view. At the village the road forked, so I took the left road till the bitumen ended. Then back at the fork took the right fork just in case it was any higher. I got some strange looks for some workers as I rode up a service lane behind the highest building up the hill, but it was bitumen and still heading up so I had to take it!

Lucky 13

With my one climb out of the way, I got to enjoy the fast descent back down. All that was then left was to roll through the small villages that line the road back into Bourg St Maurice.

Valley road back to Bourg St Maurice

After a late lunch, the only other task for the day was to walk the short distance to the Europcar office and pick up my car I’ll be using for the next two weeks.

Initially my trip to France was to be just two weeks. For these weeks, I chose Bourg d’Oisans and Bourg St Maurice. Both towns had enough climbs to keep me busy for a week each and were accessible by public transport. Given I’d be riding back to my accommodation; a car would be an unnecessary extra expense.

But when the extra two weeks were added to the itinerary, I decided to book a car to get to all the other areas in the French Alps I wanted to visit. I will be spending at most three days at each of the remaining locations before I leave, so although possible to still go to these towns with public transport, it would involve numerous transfers to get around.

The new car

The car I chose was a Peugeot Partner.  Although a little pricier than the usual small compact cars available, the Peugeot with its high roof and fold up seats allows the bike to sit inside upright with only the front wheel off plus fit the bike case and the rest of my luggage easily.

Ride details:

Distance 65.82km

1652m elevation